Plus Size Sewing Patterns

From LoveToKnow Plussize

Knowing where to find and how to use plus size sewing patterns can increase your fashion opportunities. Whether you choose to do your own sewing or hire a seamstress, a flattering, correctly-sized pattern combined with a well-chosen fabric can be a fun way to build a well-fitting wardrobe.

It's All in the Fit

One key to successful sewing is getting the finished garment to fit correctly. No matter how beautiful the fabric or how stylish the design, the item will probably just sit in your closet or your lingerie drawer if the sleeves are too tight or the waist is too short. Sewing patterns are an important part of creating a properly fitting garment.

When selecting a pattern, look for one that will let you easily make any changes you need for a good fit. Finding a well-fitting pattern requires more than just matching a few measurements to the size chart. A plus size figure may have special fitting challenges that can be addressed with the pattern. For example:

Full bustline – Some plus size women have a larger bust measurement in proportion to their waist and hip measurements. They need to be able to adapt to a larger bust in the front of the garment. Some of these women may also require the darts to be placed lower on the sides to accommodate a lower bustline.
Full back – Having a little more room in the back of a garment is important to some women of size to give them comfort and a smooth fit.
Narrow shoulders – Some women have narrow shoulders. Many plus size patterns are created with fuller bustlines and more room in the shoulder area. Without an adjustment in the shoulder width, a woman with narrow shoulders may find that the tops of her sleeves are not sitting in the right place on her shoulder, often causing the upper arm to appear larger.
Full tummy area – Tummy fit is important in all garments, particularly in pants and shorts. Some women carry their tummy weight at their waist with others having a wider, lower tummy. If there is not enough tummy room in a pair of pants, they may not provide a smooth fit across the stomach and the pants may ride up in the front when walking or sitting.
Full upper arms – A close-fitting sleeve may need to be adjusted to fit the wearer's upper arms.
Full neck – Necklines that are designed to be worn close to the neck may need to be cut down a bit to accommodate a larger neck.

Take Measurements

It may sound simplistic; however, you need to use the right size pattern. Pattern sizing varies between pattern companies just like it does between clothing companies. Just because you usually wear a size 20 in ready-made clothes, you can't assume that you will also need to purchase a size 20 pattern. You need to measure!

Start by purchasing a non-stretch tape measure that will fit around your hips. If the tape measures you find aren't long enough, look for a quilting tape measure. It looks exactly the same, it is just longer. As an alternative, you can use a piece of non-stretchable ribbon, holding it around your bustline or hips as if it were a tape measure. Then you can just measure the amount of ribbon used against a ruler, yardstick or metal tape measure.

Measuring yourself may not give you the most accurate calculations. It can be difficult to hold the tape measure in place while you move as necessary to read it. This is a good time to invite your friend, mom or daughter over for a little help.

Helpful Pattern Features

Most plus size sewing patterns are sold in size ranges. One pattern includes cutting lines for several sizes. This will be particularly helpful if your measurements require a different size top and bottom.

Look for a pattern that includes fitting options for your unique body situation. If you have a full and low bust, look for a pattern that can be enlarged in the bust area and where the darts can be repositioned or redirected. Even if your measurements are identical to the measurements of a certain size, you should be able to easily revise the pattern to better fit your unique body shape.

Where to Buy Plus Size Sewing Patterns

Pattern books in fabric stores carry plus size patterns, often up to a size 28 and sometimes larger. There are also many online sources for plus size patterns, frequently offered in a wider size range and with more fitting options:

Simplicity – Simplicity offers fashion-forward patterns in misses sizes 10 to 18 and womens sizes 20W to 28W.
Butterick – These are classic styles available in misses sizes to extra large and in womens sizes from XXL to 6X. The patterns designed by Connie Amaden-Crawford are designed specifically with the plus size woman in mind and seem to accommodate many fit challenges.
McCalls – The styles are a little more trendy with sizes available in misses 8 to 16 and womens 18W to 24W.
Fashion Patterns - Connie Amaden-Crawford, an author, teacher and former professor at the Fashion Institute in Los Angeles, has drafted these patterns using her signature fit method. Patterns are available in XL to 6X. Clearance-priced patterns are also available.
Sew Grand – These patterns provide lots of fit options including lines to lengthen or shorten at various points in the garment as well as various shoulder size adjustments. The patterns are available in sizes 12 to 26.
My Sisters Patterns – These patterns are available in sizes XS to XXXL, with many also sized by shoulder width.
My Pattern Designer – With this software you can produce an unlimited number of made-to-measure patterns using your computer in misses sizes 2 to 40 and womens sizes 6 to 40. You just enter five measurements: Height, bust, waist, hip and inseam.